There is a lot to say about Smith Rock. The best way to summarize it is to say that it is the Disneyland of rock climbing.
Mainly, there are over 1000 sport climbs. It is the birthplace of sport climbing. The access is remarkably well maintained trails and steps right up to the rock face. It is remarkably populated with climbers.
We started out by hitting up a local climbing shop where we invested in a stick clip. This amazing device is a pole with a clip on it. It is AWESOME. Mainly, because you can secure your rope to the first anchor before you begin climbing.
This is great because then you are protected at the beginning of your climb. Mainly this is important so you don't hurt yourself by hitting the ground. Higher up on the face of the climb, if you fall you don't run into the pesky ground. You have a bit more space to bounce around on the rope. We were pretty happy with the stick clip we got, it is telescoping and extends to about 20 feet.
We also picked up a local guide book - we actually rented it. The book is a tome, it is nearly 500 pages of detailed maps and ratings of climbs around the rock. Renting the bible of Smith Rock climbing was a bit more economical than getting the book for ourselves - and it was a valuable resource.
We started out the day with monster sandwich. Nope, that's not climbing lingo. We made some pretty great avocado-tomato-turkey sandwiches.
Then we hit the wall. We started out with the most famous climb in the park. It was brutal. Not the climb, but the heat. We were in the direct sun, and it was scorching. We loved it anyways. The climb is called "Five Gallon Buckets" since climbing it is like climbing a stack of 5 gallon buckets.
After the buckets, we headed to a shadier spot, and hit up the Phoenix wall. This climb would be more challenging, but is also a Smith Rock classic. It is called Hissing Llamas - or Scary Llamas. There's a tough section halfway through where you need to lay back over a bulge in the rock.
It is pretty amazing how well manicured and maintained the park is. Each area has a trail or set of stairs leading to the climbs. There are belay stations which are flat and level, where you can spread out your gear and stand comfortably while belaying the climber. I was just amazed at how well the park was put together.
Paths to the face of the rock
Belay Station
After that we headed over to the Christian Brothers wall. We did a tough 5.9 climb there called Revelations. We were pretty happy we had a fancy stick clip there - the first bolt was just barely within reach of our stick clip - nearly 25' up in the air! It is one of the older climbs in the park - with fewer bolts.
Glad we have the stick clip.
No really, that's the first bolt!
Then Joey did the next climb to the left of us, a 5.10a that used the same anchors. So he got to top-rope that one. It is called Irreverence. If we had wanted to lead-climb this one, the stick clip would have been key - the start was pretty tough with few holds.
We were pretty worn out after a climb-packed afternoon so we headed out to Skull Hollow campground where all the climbers go who visit Smith Rock. We didn't find much of a scene there, but the picnic tables were nice to eat at.
That sandwich sure looks good!
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