Thursday, September 6, 2012

Allenspur


Allenspur is an idyllic climbing location.  It is on BLM land only accessed by cutting through a farm pasture. The land is on some limestone cliffs on the edge of a river valley south of Livingston, MT.   The climbing area was bordered by a farmstead with classic red buildings with white trim. 

Photo of the valley from moutainproject.com

We were excited for a full day of climbing.  The rock at this location is limestone but it is extra exciting because of the pockets of dolomite crystals! 

Dolomite crystals mixed in with the limestone make for interesting climbing in Allenspur. 


We wanted to warm up on a nice 5.8 - we picked out a route called 'Climbing Club Route'.  It was an unusual sport route since it followed a crack system up the face - there was some added complication as the crux of the climb was a tricky transition from the crack system to face climbing over a roof.  I thought it was pretty hard, a "Montana 5.8".  

If you look carefully, you can trace the route by following our blue rope up the face. 

It took me a while to make it up to the top, but Joey was having a great time belaying me.  While I was climbing, a couple of fighter jets passed through the valley!  Pretty spectacular - although I was usually in an odd position when they flew by. 

The climbing area is pretty well marked.  I would go so far as to say emphatically marked.  The private property owners bordering the climbing area although graciously allowing climbers traverse their property, are very specific about what they allow where.  Signs marked the climbing trail stating that we must be quiet, must not loiter, and must not have dogs.  In general climbers are a respectful bunch - I hope these people haven't had any bad impressions of the climbing community. 

Hilarious signage clearly marking the boundary of the climbing area. 

So of course, we picked a climb at the very border of the property.  After the climb, we wanted to check out a cave that was full of crystals about 20 feet downhill from our climb (in the private property zone - tisk tisk - maybe they had good reason for all the signage).  For some reason, scrambling down to the cave, I lost my footing while in flip flops and re-tweaked my ankle.  Serious bummer.   

We took stock, and decided to just head out and high-tail it for Billings.  We needed to find a hotel and get ready for a flight in the morning - so it may have been a blessing in disguise leaving early.  

At the same time, my mom was finalizing a lease on her home and packing to move to LA!  It was great being in an area with cell reception to get caught up on all of her progress!  Yay! 

Billings was less than memorable, and we had no trouble parking the van at the airport and catching a plane to Oklahoma.  

For details on the shenanigans in Oklahoma - you'd have to ask Rhi.  Just imagine cowboy hats, barns, and lots of rock and roll music.  The guys even went rock climbing on a grain silo!


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